What is the smearing technique?
As mentioned above, the smearing technique is a way to utilize your feet to gain friction to climb. The most fundamental part of smearing is the footwork moving your foot correctly to create the friction you need to climb. The other key part of smearing is balance. The best climbers have a strong and confident grasp on their feet and themselves, which allows them to maintain balance as they smear. To find the best grip for your shoes and skin, you need to experiment to see what works best for you and your shoes. When you smear, you’re not trying to push your foot against the rock you’re using the surface of your foot to create the friction you need to propel yourself upward.
Equipment needed for smearing
- Smearing shoes - Smearing requires certain shoes with grooves that allow you to create the friction you need to climb. The best shoes for smearing are shoes with a stiff and aggressive sole that provides more traction than a softer shoe would. Shoes with a low profile and rounded edges are also helpful because they allow you to get your foot as close to the rock as possible.
- Fingerless gloves - Some shoes have grooves that stick out too far to be usable, which means you need to wear fingerless gloves to create the friction you need to climb.
- Solo-style harness - Some shoes have a rigid plastic ankle collar that interferes with the solo-style harness. If this is the case for your shoes, you can look for a pair without this feature.
Basic smearing technique
The first part of the smearing technique is finding the right grip on the rock. When you smear, you’re using your foot to create friction between your shoe and the rock. This means you need a shoe with a low profile with aggressive grooves, sliding surfaces, and rounded edges. The right foot positioning is also key to smearing, as you want to create a bend in your knee while you place your foot on the rock. This creates an angle between your foot and leg, allowing you to create more pressure with less movement. Once you’ve found the right grip, your next step is to create the friction you need to climb. You do this by pushing your foot into the surface of the rock, creating pressure that will propel you upward.
Advanced smearing technique
The basic smearing technique is a great way to get used to climbing with your feet, but it doesn’t exactly provide a lot of benefits. For beginners or experienced climbers looking to boost their climbing skills, the best thing to do is to use the smearing technique with a different set of footwork and balance challenges. This means adding a new challenge to the smearing technique, like more challenging moves or a higher angle. Advanced smearing challenges your footwork and balance skills to reach new heights and heights you’ve never reached before. To boost your climbing skills, challenging your footwork and balance with advanced smearing is a great way to push yourself and become a better climber. With the right footwork and balance challenges, you can also boost your climbing skills with the smearing technique, helping you reach new heights and extend the potential of your climbing journey.
Tips for mastering the smearing technique
- Get used to moving your feet - The most fundamental part of smearing is learning how to move your feet, so you can build confidence, find the proper grip, and create the friction you need to climb.
- Practice makes perfect - The more you smear, the better you’ll get at it, so don’t be afraid to get creative with your footwork, moves, and balance challenges.
- Experiment with your shoes - Smearing requires specific shoes with aggressive grooves and sliding surfaces for you to get the most out of it. When you smear, you want to make sure you find the right grip on the shoe and create the friction you need with your foot.
- Shoes are a personal choice - Smearing is a technique that is best used with specific shoes and other climbing gear, but it’s important to keep in mind that your personal preferences may not work with smearing.
Smearing technique for different types of rock
When it comes to the smearing technique, the best thing to do is to experiment and find the technique that works best for your feet and shoes. However, some general guidelines can help you find the best technique for different types of rock.
- Rock with lots of cracks - Smearing on a rock with lots of cracks and fissures is helpful because it allows you to create the friction you need with your feet. This also allows you to practice smearing on rocks with many cracks and fissures, giving you a better idea of when you’re done.
- Rock with fewer cracks - Smearing on a rock with fewer cracks and fissures isn’t as helpful, as it doesn’t allow you to create the same level of friction. When smearing on this type of rock, you want to make sure you use the right technique and footwork to get the most out of it.
